Installation with Liftmaster Opener

Thanks for the info.
LiftMaster Model 882LM Multi-Function Control Panel is Security+2.0. There’s a paragraph about it in the installation instructions under “Wiring Research”.

Connecting Garadget directly to the opener doesn’t work because the the openers enabled with Security+ 2.0 (MyQ and AssureLink models from LiftMaster, Chamberlain and Sears) can’t be triggered with a toggle. They must use the encrypted serial protocol supported by remotes like the 882LM.

Wiring Garadget to the button pads of a spare wireless remote or wall remote are the valid solutions for this. Essentially Garadget’s relay will be pressing the remote control’s button for you.

Yeah, going to wire to spare remote since the panel is quite a ways and don’t want to run any unnessasary wires. time to bust out that solder iron.

That should do it. Please share more pics when finished.

I get the need for extended functions on the wall panel and the move to the serial protocol as the result, but I see no reason for removing the terminals for traditional wall button. It’s almost as if they are trying to secure+ the sales of their own products. /rant

Ha, will do. Moving forward since more and more utlizing this style. Might want to offer an addon for these paticular models where we don’t have to go out and buy a spare remote and hack it :wink:

The addition would be great if it wasn’t for legally protected security through obscurity.

Solder and its working now! Kinda rushed my solder job.

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Why won’t a software fix be introduced? There should be a way around this kind of security+.
I don’t have a spare remote as both are used in this household.
Did I buy a product that won’t work on my door because the manufacturer of the door opener uses a security protocole?

It’s not a technical limitation; the manufacturer of your opener will sue anybody who tries to talk to their units.
Please view this topic for explanation and workaround.

Part of the motivation for Garadget was to put pressure on vendors of other garage door controllers to open their protocols and allow people to use the devices their purchased in any way they see fit.

Thanks for these instructions - it seems xNinjas used a circuit board from a remote control. I purchased a 882LMW wall button - will the 'work around" work with a wall button or do I need a remote control circuit board? If the wall button works, does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram? I see where the button is on the board, but don’t know which of the leads I should solder to in order to create the proper connection. Since I have the wall-based controller board, I assume I would use the screw-points to go from the board to the back of the opener and the Garadget leads would be soldered to the “button” points on the board.

I see one surface mounted button and 3 groups of contacts for the rubber membrane type of button. There is no picture of the front panel so without the labels I’ll have to guess that the surface mounted one is for operating the door.

You tap to it like this:

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You are correct @garadget the rubber membrane is for other options. @busbys you’d want to test out on "SW1"
The way I determined which leads to solder i used the little screw drive that came with the garadget.(use any metal and see which one will work) then I solder the back leads with the wires from garadget.

BTW @busbys how is that thing powered? and is it connected to the garage?

Thank you all for your help with this. @xNinjas - It would get it’s power from the opener - same as the wall button. It’s still a guess on if the opener will be confused by hooking up two wall buttons. I might have to go find the wireless controller like you have if this does not work.

I will post once I get a chance to test this and let you know if it works. Thanks!

@xNinjas re power: probably leeching it from the opener through the same 2 wires (parasitic supply) similar to how it’s done in 1 Wire Protocol.

@garadget I think you are right - P1 and P2 are the two screw terminals which wires from the opener would be attached. I will take the leads from the garadget and solder to the SW1 terminals and then solder a another patch cable from P1 and P2 and run to the opener. I think that should power both the wall button and the circuit board.

@busbys i thought that. Report back if it can bower both. Be a lot better than replacing the button battery

@xNinjas I have installed the board - wired as I described above with P1 and P2 wires going to the opener and SW1 wires going to garadget and this setup seems to work fine. I picked up a 882LMW on ebay inexpensively, so if you want to change out your wireless controller board, this should work for you.

Thank you to everyone for all the help!

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@busbys I’ll watch for the prices to go down. ATM I only have one car and it has homelink. I don’t need the two remotes. One is in the glove compartment just in case.

I used the process described above to solder the bell wires to my Liftmaster 398LM wall controller and it’s working fine. My circuit was different - but the principle was the same.

BTW - the wall controller did not require re-programming with the master controller in the GDO after reconnecting the two wires.

G

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If I were to solder to the button that is setup using the steps here (Program 3-button remote to control the lights):

http://chamberlain.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/158/~/how-to-activate-or-deactivate-the-light-feature,-or-adjust-the-light-timer-on

to control the light on the opener, would the signal from the garadget app activate it correctly?

My understanding that described setup uses a separate remote button for operating the light.
Garadget has a single terminal in the back for controlling door. You can connect it to the light button but that means you no longer control the door.

Additional controls can be added as the hardware extensions connected to the black 4-pin terminal in the back. Several different types should be available by mid 2017.